Text Box: The above critters represent the latest danger to growing epi’s in the Western USA. These are root weevils. It appears that the primary way that these pests end up in our epi pots is by using unsterilized potting mix. The weevil on the right is commonly found in forest humus products from the Pacific North West. It is 1/3” to 1/2’ long. The one on the left is of unknown source. Both live in the soil by day and chew on our plants at night. The weevil on the right can’t fly, but it can jump up to 5 feet! The one on the left has wings, so we can assume it can fly. Lefty is a bit larger at about 3/4”. I have included an abridged/edited text below on suggested organic eradication. It takes some consistency of application. One SDES member reported that it took 5 years of applying nematodes to finally eliminate the weevils. One last word...ALWAYS buy steam sterilized potting mixes and components.
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The optimal timing is about mid-May  to put on an     gyyyom Integrated Biological Control Systems, 'Entonem' from Koppert Biological) should be considered in northern locations since it tolerates cooler soil temperatures and completes its life cycle quickly. Once the grubs begin to pupate (usually early June) nematodes should not be applied, because they do not attack the adult (beetle) stage. . Neem-based products containing azadiractin (such as Aza-Direct) may be acceptable for organic production, and while neem will not kill thets it can disrupt egg-laying if applied at high rates at least twice.

Nematodes are living organisms and they can be killed if they are misapplied. Order nematodes ahead of time and be ready to apply them through a sprayer or irrigation soon after they arrive, refrigerating if delay is necessary. Do not apply nematodes using a sprayer with a piston pump. Use clean equipment, removing all screens finer than 50-mesh. Apply nematodes in early morning or evening in a high volume of water to already moist soil, pre-irrigating if needed. Apply another ¼ inch of irrigation after application to wash them onto and into the soil. Ironically, nematodes probably work best in the worst weevil-infested pots. High populations of weevil larvae allow explosive growth in nematode populations, while low populations of larvae may not permit efficient nematode reproduction. 

All photos and text by Phil Peck unless otherwise noted. Copyright 2006

This is a soft mealy bug. Horticultural oil is effective against this pest.
Text Box: Note #1. This is an edited reprint of an article in the May, 06 issue of “Epi News”. I have found it! A major pest for epi growers has always been scale. In particular, hard scale. These are the little critters that form a hard, nearly impenetrable shell over their bodies. This waxy shell is able to resist nearly any topical insecticide. About the only remedy we have had until now was the repeated applications of alcohol and surfactants to try to break down the protective coating. The problem here is that often this solution would damage the plants themselves. About the only other answer, especially for bad infections, was to use a systemic insecticide like Orthene. I don't like to use systemics in the garden. They are generally quite toxic and often long lived in the plant and environs. I have FINALLY found what I feel is the definitive cure for scale and many other pests in our gardens. I have done some extensive testing with SunSpray brand Ultra Fine Horticultural Oil. I think this product is amazing. I have tried other brands of horticultural oils on epis. All have been a disaster. Most horticultural oils disturb the outer, waxy protective coating that all cacti have. That usually spells death for the plant. Not so with SunSpray. In fact, I have used this spray on epis (effective on scale, hard and soft and mealies), over ten different ferns, including a heavily scale infected maidenhair, fuchsia (red spider mite and fuchsia mite and even thrips), Tomatos (effective against tomato horn worm) with absolutely no noticeable damage to any plant! Scale requires a repeat spraying at one to two weeks for eradication. This is because the young, mobile scale hide under the older, hard scale. This oil is even effective against white fly. With the addition of a little baking soda, it is effective against powdery mildew. All this and it is non toxic. It can be used up until the day of harvest on any food crop! It kills the bugs by suffocating them. Another big problem in our garden has always been spider mites. Because they are not insects, most insecticides aren't effective against them. SunSpray oil is. We had a badly infected mint plant. Two application (a week apart) zapped the mites. Literature suggests that this oil is also effective in helping plants to not dry out during hot, dry spells. like Santa Ana's. It causes the plants to close their stomata and therefore retain moisture. My chum Steve challenged this product to his true test. As many of you are aware, Steve founded and owned a the largest cactus nursery in Baja. His experience with a number of different horticultural oils on cactus was not pleasant. In fact, he killed most of the plants he sprayed. His challenge to me was to spray several large epi buds that were covered with aphids. He had never seen a cactus bud survive with the least bit of horticultural oil on it. I sprayed tow of the buds as they hung on a plant high over head. Within a day, all the aphids were dead. The buds continued to develop normally to bloom. It's a good thing...I had unwittingly sprayed the buds on our Shannon plant!! I have gotten this spray in my eyes, all over my skin with absolutely no ill effects. In fact, it felt rather nice on my skin. It's my feeling that this non-toxic product (FDA rated one step less toxic than Safer soap) is the Swiss Army knife of the garden. I believe that this oil would be effective against any infection which the offender is about 1/8" or less. I haven't tried it against bigger critters like ants, but it just may work there too. It is inexpensive and very effective. Foot Note: Now for the bad news. After writing this article, I learned that SunSpray’a manufacturer, Sunoco is not producing or selling this product anymore. There is a very similar product called “All Seasons Spray Oil”. It is manufactured by Bonide. After careful revue, I feel that this product should be very similar to Thee SunSpray product. I would be cautious using either product in direct, hot sunlight or at very high temperatures. Used properly and with some common sense, either product should prove to be just what we need. Phil